Eureka Springs Independent Newspaper Column for August 22, 2013

We recently drove the length of the Florida panhandle. After observing thousands of hermit crabs on the beach at a state park, we decided to drive to the small town of Carrabelle to eat at the Fisherman’s Wife Restaurant. We pulled up just as the open sign was switched off. At the next restaurant, a barbecue place, the owner let us in though it was also her closing time.

Inside the restaurant were three customers, two of whom were cops. We traipsed in sunburned and trailing sand and headed to our table. I was wearing my Arkansas Razorbacks t-shirt and one of the cops said, “The only problem with you coming in so late is that you’ll have to call the hogs before we let you leave.” Woo. Pig. Sooie.

Off in a corner was the weatherworn third customer, a man in the middle of a 13-month journey circumnavigating the lower 48 states on a bicycle. He planned to set up his tent by the restaurant that night despite the alligators.

One of the kids commented later that it was like an episode of the Twilight Zone. The cop turned out to be a nice guy with the goal in life of living on Beaver Lake part of the year so he can attend Razorback football games. He told us that before we told him where we’re from. Small world.

That is my point, the word is out that this is an interesting place to live and the numbers prove it. While Eureka Springs proper has only had modest growth the last few decades, the population in Carroll County west of the Kings River has more than tripled. In 1960, it was only 2,844, while today it is 8,728. A large portion of that is the Holiday Island boom, but all those houses edging Beaver Lake have people in them, too.

And as I was told by a local Realtor, they’re not making land anymore. The best I can figure, Carroll County west of the Kings River covers 103,101 acres. At the present population, that comes out to 12 acres per person. Tend it wisely.

Eureka Springs Independent Newspaper Column for August 15, 2013

Below is the “Notes from the Hollow” column from the August 15, 2013 edition of the Eureka Springs Independent newspaper.

It may also be accessed here: http://issuu.com/esindependent/docs/esi_vol_2_no_7/17?e=0

I was behind a man in line at a local convenience store one day and a tourist asked him if he was a Eureka Springs native. The man answered, “I’ve lived here five years, I think that makes me a native.”

That’s a curious statement. Is it really that easy to become a native Eurekan? It only takes five years?

Not all Eurekans are native born, of course, so who qualifies? I don’t know exactly. My children are sixth generation Weemses here, and yet we actually reside outside the city limits. Does that disqualify us as Eurekans? Just how does one prove one’s bona fides? To be honest, I was born in the Eureka Springs Hospital, but I’ve only clocked half my life here. Is that good enough? Home has never been anywhere else, but maybe I don’t make the cut.

Certain hard-boiled natives, long-term residents and ex-pats see Eureka Springs as being occupied by foreign forces. That’s a bit harsh. Their view of Eureka Springs is much different than that of someone who optimistically cashed in their 401k to move here and buy a business. And that person’s view is much different than the one selling out, leaving town bankrupt and bitter.

Some say Eureka Springs isn’t a real town anymore. Sure, some locals only go downtown for the post office or to eat at Local Flavor, but that just means the town has changed. Whether for better or worse is for you to decide. I’ve heard it both ways.

What of the many Eurekans who have moved away for a living wage, to be near children or just to experience the real world? Are their passports confiscated on the way out of town?

I think a true Eurekan always comes back, whether it be for short visits, to retire or maybe just to be buried.

I once read in the newspaper that a city leader said something along the lines that we are all here because of tourism. That makes a nice rallying cry, except for those here despite the tourism. Some are here simply because it’s home.

 

Almost to Wemyss Castle via Google Earth

Rested up from my earlier jaunt to Gosford House, I return to Scotland for another look around. I start out in a village in Fife called the Coaltown of Wemyss looking for the road that would lead me to Wemyss Castle. Below is an aerial shot of the area. Isn’t it lovely? Click on it and it will enlarge.

The main road through the Coaltown of Wemyss is the A955. I follow it looking for a turnoff to the south that might lead to the home of the current Wemyss of Wemyss. This small road looks like a good candidate. As you see, it is a beautiful day. Perhaps I can stop and ask the person with the dog for some directions.

I make the mistake of trying to read the map and drive at the same time and come a bit too close to the black dog. I find myself wanting to drive on the right side of the road, like in the Ozarks, when I should be on the left. Embarrassed after swerving to miss the dog, I do not stop to ask directions from the gentleman out for a leisurely walk.

I was looking at the map because I wanted to know the name of this small road. I still am not sure what to call it, but it is a nice drive through the grounds of the Wemyss Estate with the sheep and pastures. I wonder if they get a good price for the wool.

I follow this for nearly half a mile when I reach a fork in the road. I take the one more traveled and come to a collection of stone buildings.

Or as seen from above.

Although I see some impressive stonework, I don’t think I have found the castle. Instead, I think it is the outbuildings involved in the estate’s farming operations.

I do notice the swans, a symbol of the Wemyss family.

My exploring triggers an uncomfortable sensation of trespassing and I think I should probably head back the way I have come. When I turn I see a quaint cottage and what may be as beautiful a tree as I have ever seen.

Maybe I am a bit disappointed that I haven’t found Wemyss Castle, but at the same time I realize it is a private residence and perhaps I have snooped around enough. I can always look at photographs of it on the internet. I follow the road back toward the Coaltown of Wemyss.

I pass a row of pretty cottages and wave at the man and his dog and turn back onto the A955 and continue my journey.

 

A Quick Jaunt to Gosford House via Google Earth

As you know, travelling to Scotland from the Ozarks is quicker and cheaper via Google Earth than actually going there in person. Today I had the inclination to check in on the 13th Earl of Wemyss at his Scottish home of Gosford House. I’m told the new Earl actually lives in England, but I was more in the mood to see Scotland. Gosford House and the 5,000 acre estate are located about 20 miles east of Edinburgh. When I arrived at the closed gate, I realized I wasn’t getting in today.

Gosford House, Scotland

The Earl of Wemyss is not to be confused with the Wemyss of Wemyss located at Wemyss Castle. Wemyss Castle is located just across the Firth of Forth from the gate of Gosford House. Turning around, I can look out across the Firth of Forth (where the River Forth drains into the North Sea) and see the distant shore of the Kingdom of Fife. Look at that glowering sky. Click on the image below to see it larger. Go ahead, try it.

Firth of Forth from Gosford House